:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc():format(webp)/demi-vs-permanent-hair-color-GettyImages-1312483428-70024c3cdb174a9097375155d4fc8a83.jpg "How to Choose Between Semi-Permanent vs. Demi-Permanent Hair Color (1)")
If you’ve ever had your hair colored at the salon (or taken the DIY route), you’re probably well aware that there are key differences between semi- vs. demi-permanent hair color—but what are they? Hair colors are generally categorized into one of three groups: semi-permanent, demi-permanent, and permanent. While permanent colors are meant to last, semi- and demi-permanent colors are meant to last long, but not quite as long. Here, top hair colorists explain the differences between semi-permanent hair color and demi-permanent hair color—and how to know what's right for you.
- Kristen Fleming, Chicago-based hair colorist.
- Nicole Gache, head colorist at Valery Joseph Salon in New York City
What Is Permanent Hair Color?
Permanent hair color is hair dye that will last a long time, without washing out; it needs to grow out. That's because permanent color opens the cuticle (the outside layer of the hair).
Permanent color contains chemicals like ammonia, which is what opens the cuticle by raising the pH of the hair. Developer—a liquid oxidizing agent that contains hydrogen peroxide—also helps push the color into the cuticle to penetrate the cortex (the innermost layer of the hair), explains Kristen Fleming, a Chicago-based hair colorist.
What Is Semi-Permanent Hair Color?
Semi-permanent color is hair dye that deposits the color onto the surface of the hair, but the color doesn't penetrate the hair much deeper than that. That's because semi-permanent color doesn't contain ammonia, and you don't mix semi-permanent hair color with a developer, both of which open up the hair's cuticle to soak up the color. Semi-permanent dye cannot lighten your hair for that reason. Without the chemicals that open the hair cuticle, it can only temporarily tone your hair, enhance your natural color, or darken your hair.
Semi-permanent hair dye washes out in just four to 12 shampoos. This is quite the range because the longevity of semi-permanent hair dye depends on many factors like hair porosity and the type of shampoo you use. More porous hair, for example, tends to fade faster because, while it absorbs color more easily, it also washes out more easily. Sulfate shampoos can also cause hair color to fade faster.
Is Semi-Permanent Hair Color Damaging?
Semi-permanent hair color is not generally considered damaging dye because it doesn't affect the condition or internal structure of the hair strands. Because semi-permanent hair colors don't contain harsh chemicals like ammonia or peroxide, and you don't need to use a developer (and, therefore, hydrogen peroxide), they're pretty safe to use. For these reasons, semi-permanent hair color tends to be the gentlest option.
However, because semi-permanent hair color fades rather quickly, it can eventually start to look uneven, dull, or dry. It's also worth noting that repeated coloring of any kind can actually cause dryness, especially if you don't regularly condition color-treated hair.
What Is Demi-Permanent Hair Color?
On the flip side, demi-permanent color is hair dye that's not exactly permanent, but it's as close to permanent as you can get without fully committing. A demi-permanent hair dye will last around 24 shampoos because it penetrates deep into the hair, Fleming explains.
Demi-permanent color seeps deeper into the hair cuticle because you mix it with a developer, which helps to open them up, Nicole Gache, a head colorist at Valery Joseph Salon, explains. Demi-permanent hair color also tends to contain an alkali ingredient that helps open up the cuticle, as well. But a demi-permanent hair dye won’t lift or lighten your existing color either; it only deposits color, Fleming adds.
Is Demi-Permanent Hair Color Damaging?
Demi-permanent hair color is generally less damaging than permanent hair color because it doesn't contain ammonia and uses a lower-volume developer. However, it is more damaging than semi-permanent hair color because it opens the hair cuticle to deposit color. This process can cause some dryness and weaken the hair over time, especially if you frequently dye your hair with demi-permanent hair colors.
Regularly conditioning your hair is essential when using demi-permanent hair color to counteract any damage done in the dyeing process. Deep-conditioning treatments or nourishing hair masks can help restore your hair's moisture, strengthen the hair shafts, and maintain the overall health and elasticity of your hair. Using shampoos and hair-styling products that are specific to color-treated hair can boost the resiliency of your hair, as well—plus, they can also keep your color looking richer longer.
How to Choose Between Semi-Permanent or Demi-Permanent Color
There are plenty of reasons why you might choose temporary hair color over permanent hair color, but how do you decide just how temporary you want it to be? Here's a quick comparison to help you decide between semi-permanent and demi-permanent hair color.
| Semi- vs. Demi-Permanent Hair Color | |
|---|---|
| Semi-Permanent | Demi-Permanent |
| Lasts 4-12 washes | Lasts 24 washes |
| Ammonia-free | Ammonia-free |
| Peroxide-free | Contains some peroxide |
| No need for a developer | Requires a developer |
| Coats the hair shaft | Slightly penetrates the hair cuticle |
| Not damaging | Less damaging than permanent color but not damage-free |
| Minimally blends grays | Offers blended gray coverage |
| Cannot lighten hair | Cannot lighten hair |
| Safe for all hair types | Safe for most hair types (except very porous or damaged hair) |
| Low commitment | Medium commitment |
Who Should Consider Using Semi-Permanent Hair Color?
Want to try a color without any major commitment? Semi is the way to go, given how quickly it will wash out. If you love the color, minimizing how often you wash your hair—and using only color-safe shampoos and conditioners when doing so is—the best way to prolong your fresh new hue.
Semi-permanent is also a nice pick if you want to tone your highlights, notes Gache. But keep in mind that regular maintenance and upkeep are required to maintain the effect. The good news is that semi-permanent hair dye can be easier to use at home since you don’t have to mix it with a developer—so maintenance may be more attainable.
Who Should Consider Using Demi-Permanent Hair Color?
Like semi-permanent hair color, demi-permanent hair color is ideal for those who want to experiment with a new shade without committing to it. A demi-permanent hair color will last a little longer than a semi-permanent one to really help you settle into the new look before it starts to fade—but you still don't need to be married to it because it will eventually wash out. While demi-permanent hair color requires upkeep (given its limited longevity), the regrowth won’t be as harsh as it would be with a permanent color. This means no real need for root touch-ups because there will be no dramatic line of demarcation from new growth.
Demi-permanent hair color is also a great choice for anyone looking to enhance their natural color or tone down brassy hair without all the harsh chemicals of permanent hair dyes. It can also be a nice option if you have a little bit of gray that you’re looking to cover up and want to blend in with the rest of your hair. “Demi-permanent can cover some gray but will still keep your color close to the natural tone,” says Gache.
If you have a lot of gray that you’re trying to camo, a permanent color (over either semi- or demi-permanent color) is still going to be the best option, says Fleming.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I remove demi-permanent color faster?
If you don't like your new look after using demi-permanent hair dye, rest assured that it will wash out within about 24 washes. However, you can make it fade even faster by using products like clarifying shampoos, color removers, and color correctors.
Rinsing with warm water can also help it fade faster because it opens the hair cuticle, allowing the color molecules to leak out more easily. Hot water, however, will strip away your hair's natural oils, leaving it more porous and prone to fading—but this isn't necessarily healthy for your hair.
Are semi- and demi-permanent hair colors safe for all hair types?
Semi-permanent color is generally considered safe for all hair types, including chemically treated or textured hair. Demi-permanent color is also generally considered safe for most hair types. However, because demi-permanent dye slightly opens the hair cuticle to deposit color, it's not as safe for hair that is already very porous, dry, or damaged. Always do a patch test before using hair-coloring products to make sure that your hair doesn't have adverse reactions.
How long should I wait between color applications?
It's generally recommended to wait at least four to six weeks between color applications for both semi-permanent and demi-permanent hair colors. This helps you to avoid over-processing your hair, which can lead to dryness and damage. If you notice dryness or breakage, you should wait even longer to give your hair time to recover between treatments.
Can I use Kool-Aid as a semi-permanent hair color?
Contrary to popular belief, Kool-Aid is not considered a semi-permanent hair color. The color of the juice does not actually bond to the hair shaft. So, while Kool-Aid can temporarily tint light hair red or blue, the color will immediately wash out with water.
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